FX Sends (and Returns Too)

As I was restructuring my synth into Subsystems, I was adamant that I wanted a varied and flexible outboard FX section. Although I love Eurorack FX, I’m fairly convinced that many FX are better outside of the case, rather than a module in it. Modulation sounds great on some FX, like delay, but causes chaos in others, like reverb. I’m know that there are lots of great pedals that aren’t in euro form, and that pedal companies have been perfecting FX for decades. The first stereo reverb, for instance, came about long before Eurorack was even invented. Why reinvent the wheel, or limit myself to only euro FX? That’s counterproductive and boring.

But I also had a logistics problem. FX sends and returns are traditionally handled through a patchbay, and as mightily as I tried, I couldn’t imagine a good way to implement a patch bay in my Eurorack system. Patchbays make connecting audio gear simple and intuitive. I use them all the time on my recording/editing desk. But this time it was not meant to be. The Eurorack specific patchbays on the market aren’t quite flexible enough. The Patchulator and Patchulator Pro don’t offer full-time access to every effect from any given number of sources. Theoretically I wanted to be able to play all 10 of my effects simultaneously, with 10 different sources. A patch bay makes this easy, but without one I’d have to come up with something different.

That something different took a while to assemble, and for all I know may not even be the best way. But even if it isn’t the most efficient way, it’s a way that works. I can run any source to any effect at any time. I can chain effects with ease. I don’t have to do any unplugging and plugging in of pedals. They’re all available, all the time. Awesome.

I long searched for a send/return module that would meet all of my needs. It had to have stereo inputs and outputs, fairly small (because I knew I would need 9 or 10 of them), a way to control the send level, and a way to mix from 100% dry to 100% wet. There are several Eurorack send/return modules, but few are fully featured. After testing a couple, the one that fit the bill best is the Knob Farm Ferry. It has everything I was looking for. It can function in mono or in stereo, has send level (which also functions as a crossfader with a switch), mixes from full dry to full wet, and all in just 4hp. To top it off, the Ferry even includes the requisite TRS > Dual TS insert cables to connect your line level outboard effects and pedals. A nice set, I might add, and not something you’d find on Amazon for a couple bucks with generic plastic connectors and cheap cabling.

Since I have 10 pedals I wanted to use as FX with my synth, I knew I needed at least 9 Ferries. I already had a Strymon AA.1 that I was determined to use so I ordered 8 more Ferries in 3 separate batches. Knob Farm even sent me a free Ooots, a very excellent output module that I use with my satellite synth.

The modules themselves have been installed for a while, but I procrastinated fiercely with getting everything patched in. Patching in 10 separate pedals, all with stereo I/O (and some with MIDI) is quite the chore, and I was dreading it. I didn’t want a proverbial rat’s nest, which meant careful labeling and deliberate cable routing with lots of Velcro cable ties to keep things as orderly as possible.

Does it work?

Once I had everything patched in came the nit-picky task of testing. Are all the modules connected to their pedals correctly? Are all of the modules set up correctly for stereo sends and returns? We’re about to find out.

For this type of testing I’ve found that very simple sources work best. They’re easy to patch, and give good, regular feedback if something is amiss down the chain. Today I set up as simple a patch as I could muster: the “Final” output from Brenso into CUNSA being used in LPG mode, with an envelope from Falistri modulating the LPG, and the EOF gate striking the wavefolder of Brenso. Falistri was set to cycle at a fairly slow rate; about 72bpm. This gave me constant boings, with some space between to let the FX tell me whether they were working or not.

I manually patched that boing to each and every Ferry, and from each Ferry to my output module (Expert Sleepers ES-9), ensuring that everything was set correctly. All mono/stereo switches were set to stereo, the Gain/Xfade knob switches to gain. I then tested the wet/dry mixing, and gain of each. Of course I also took the time to ensure that the effects were working, and had some fun, particularly with the delays, despite such a monotonous source. It took about an hour, and although I ran into 2 separate problems (I had inputs and outputs mixed up on the Oto Bam and Boum), everything went about as smoothly as it could. Nice!

The FX are in, and now it’s time to jam.

Stereo Ping Pong Delay In Eurorack (and outside too!)

Ping Pong delay is easy, right? Just tick a box in a plugin, or flick a switch on your handy stereo delay unit and you’re done, right? Well, sure, but that’s all digital. What I’m talking about is ping pong delay, old school. Patching 2 mono, analog delay units in order to create ping pong delay in the stereo field.

When I first started thinking about how to do this, very few ideas came to mind. Of course there is the pseudo ping pong trick of setting one delay time at X with the other delay at 2X, which would give you a repeat on one side then the other. But that only works for exactly 1 repeat per channel. If there is any feedback, the first delay will sound again each time the second plays, which means it’s not really ping pong at all. It’s only kinda sorta ping pong. I wanted something better. The real McCoy.

As I started to research analog ping pong patching via Google, I was quickly dismayed. There aren’t really any good sources I could find to explain the method for patching ping pong delay. Nothing. Nada. After I couldn’t find the info I was after via research, I decided to ask. I asked on an audio engineer forum. Crickets. I asked a home studio group on Facebook and was met with “Just use a plugin. It sounds the same”, as if that’s a good answer to the question of how to patch analog hardware. I looked in my own studio recording books, which were all silent on the matter. It’s as if this information just doesn’t exist, or, more accurately, was outdated by the time the internet arrived, and the knowledge on how to perform this studio trick was simply never recorded digitally. It’s a lost art from the days of yore when everything had to be patched manually, and no one outside of studios used it. A voodoo spell that not even those inside of professional working studios seem to use any longer. Analog ping pong delay is dead.

After searching for what seemed like forever, I finally happed upon a video which explains using 2 analog delays in ping pong fashion, with the aid of a desktop mixer. The patch is fairly simple, even if it’s not intuitive.

Sound Source > Ch 1 input (panned center)
Ch 1 Aux Send > Delay 1 input
Delay 1 > split directly to Ch 2 input (panned hard left) and Delay 2 Input
Delay 2 > Ch 3 input (panned hard right)
Ch 3 Aux Send > Delay 1 input
Mixer Stereo Output

Be sure that both delays are set to the same time. Be extra sure that the feedback (repeats) for both delays are set to the minimum (1 repeat). The Aux Send of input 3 (Delay 2) controls the number of repeats. BEWARE: This is a feedback patch. It can get out of control very quickly. Use the Aux Send wisely.

But I don’t have a desktop mixer, and although they can be had inexpensively, I didn’t really have much use for one outside of wanting to do tape echo ping pong delay. I used to have a Xaoc Devices Praga in my eurorack synth, which would have been ideal, but I sold it in favor of decentralized mixing alongside using a matrix mixer. Hmmmm….

A matrix mixer is nothing if not a set of inputs, sends and returns. “I think I can make this work, even in the context of my matrix mixer being full stereo”, I thought. And sure enough, after several drafts in my Notability folder for synth patching, and experimenting with dummy cable theory, I had a solid plan. I just didn’t know if it would work.

The theory with a matrix mixer is the same, but because mine is stereo, I had to use make clever use of some dummy cables in order to defeat L> R normalization at the inputs to ensure everything was in the correct channel at the outputs, while still having access to the dry and wet signals independently to mix their respective levels later in an output mixer. To mix the dry and wet in the matrix as it’s patched would leave the dry signal in the left channel only. No good.

Sound source > Input 1L, with dummy cable in 1R
Output AL/R > mono mixer > Delay 1
Delay 1 > Input 2L, with dummy cable in 2R
Output BL > Delay 2
Delay 2 > Input 3R, with a dummy cable in 3L (it is not necessary to use a dummy cable here, but I’m using one for consistency)
Output CL > Output Mixer (Pan Center)
Output DL/R > Output Mixer (Pan L/R respective, or use a stereo input)

Knobs with an X are fully CCW (off). Knobs with a green check are mixed to taste. Knob with the red check is controlling feedback for the repeats. BEWARE: Ch 3A is feedback from Delay 2 to Delay 1. It can easily run away out of control and blow your speakers, headphones, and/or ear drums. Use it sparingly.

This method also makes use of a separate mono mixer to act as a send for both the source and Delay 2 to Delay 1. It what helps make the magic happen. Without the mixer, I couldn’t get the source and Delay 2 to Delay 1 without getting channels mixed up. Everything must remain on discrete channels in the matrix. As a result of the several dummy cables, Ch A’s outputs are discrete channels being used in a dual mono setup rather than in stereo, with those signals being mixed separately before going to delay 1. It was the only way to accomplish the task of sending both the source and Delay 2 inputs to Delay 1 while keeping those signals unmixed and discrete inside of the matrix mixer for final output.

Heed the inputs and outputs used very closely. It seems a bit odd, but it ensures that the stereo field is intact and signals remain properly separated until the final output mix. Deviate at your own peril.

The dry output is from Ch C, with the wet stereo output from Ch D. Pan the Ch C output to the center, with Ch D being panned L/R respectively.

This patch can likely be simplified (and perhaps sound better as a result) by splitting the audio at the Delay 1 output rather than relying on the matrix mixer to send the output of Delay 1 to Delay 2. This experiment, however, is for another day.

Although I haven’t pondered the nitty gritty of this patch in a mono matrix mixer, I think it would likely be a better tool for the job, but my first inclination is that you would need 5 outputs, and not the standard 4.

Enjoy!

Pinging Filters in Stereo

Pinging filters in one of my favorite modular patches. You can get lots of different tones, creating very LPG-ish sounds with beautiful ringing decays, booming drums, or melodic clicks and chirps to color your modular masterpiece.

The traditional way to patch a filter for pinging is really simple. Set the resonance on your filter on the verge of self oscillation, run a trigger or gate into the INPUT of your filter, get some pitch CV into the v/Oct input or the filter cutoff CV input. Now patch the output of your filter to your output (or through any effects you might want), and you’re in business. But there’s an inherent problem in many modern filters when patched in this way.

Pinging filters.
Traditional pinging patch.

Oftentimes the input will ping on the rising edge of your trigger, then click on the falling edge, which is not ideal. No one wants clicks in their music, except when you do, so we need a work around.

Some filters, in an effort to mitigate the click problem, have a “Strike” or “Ping” input meant for gates and triggers. The Joranalogue Audio Designs Filter 8 and INSTRUō I-ō47 are 2 examples, as well as the 2 filters I used in this patch.

No “Ping” input? No problem.

For filters without a dedicated input for pinging, simply patch your trigger or gate to an envelope generator with a snappy envelope. A very fast (or even no) attack and a short decay work well. Adjust the decay of your envelope and the resonance on your filter to affect the tail of the ping. It may take a bit of fiddling, and a little can go a long way, but your perfect tail is in there. Hopefully. Patch the filter output to your output module, and on every trigger you’ll hear a new note.

Make Note: Some filters are better pingers than others. Some don’t process v/oct well, or maybe the resonance is too finicky to get the ping you’re lusting after, so if you don’t like what you get with your first choice, move on to another. That said, most filters should work well.

But this post isn’t about just pinging a filter. It’s about doing it in stereo. And while I could tell you that this method is possible with just 1 filter (it totally is), this patch uses 2 independent filters for pinging, and a stereo filter for effect.

In practice pinging 2 filters isn’t any more difficult than pinging a single filter. You simply repeat the patching process with a different filter after you’ve done it once. And rather than having a single sequence for the both of them, we’re using 2 random sequences, that are triggered randomly using a random gate skipper.

We start, as we most often do, with the clock. In this patch, we have the clock feeding 2 separate S&H generators, which will put out unrelated, random CV sequences. Both of these sequences then go through a pitch quantizer before being sent to the v/oct inputs on the filters. The sequences may be different, but we at least want them in the same key (unless you really like dissonance) for aural continuity. The clock also sends a trigger to a random gate skipper, which will allow only a subset of those triggers to pass through, ensuring that the 2 filters never receive the same beat sequence, providing stereo movement and depth. The gate skipper also send triggers to the final stereo filter, and an envelope generator, which is also modulating the filter. Yet another clock signal is sent to the delay to ensure our repeats are in time. The final clock signal is being sent to yet another Random Generator so that it can provide modulation to the final stereo effects filter.

Once triggered, the filters will send their quantized pings to a delay (pings seem to beg for delay), before moving on to the final stereo filter before going to the output. Listen to the result below!

Modules Used:


ALM Busy Circuits Pamela’s New Workout (Clock)
CuteLab Missed Opportunities (Random Gate Skipper)
Frap Tools Sapél (Random)
CalSynth uO_C (Pitch Quantizer)
Joranalogue Filter 8 (Pinging Filter)
Instruō I-ō47 (Pinging Filter)
Make Noise Maths (Envelope Generator)
Make Noise QPAS (FX Filter)
Make Noise Wogglebug (Random)
Venus Instruments Veno-Echo (Delay)

eleaf · Filter Pinging

0:00
0:00